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  • Keef Hellinger

Blog 125 Ruby Wedding Anniversary Cruise 🌠

Updated: Aug 25

By keef and annie hellinger, Mar 14 2018 08:26AM

Not the Motorhome Trip No.9 5th Feb - 12 Mar 2018 This was our 40th Wedding Anniversary Cruise to the Azores, Caribbean & Lower US States including Louisiana, Florida & South Carolina. We encountered Storm Riley on the way back meaning we had 10 days at sea instead of stopping at our 2nd Azores island on the way back.

#cruise #weddinganniversary


Overall

This Blog is like a website on its own, we were away for a month and a half so it resembles some of our much longer trips in Wendy House or hired vans in either Canada, New Zealand or Australia.

mugshots on the intrepid explorers, crossing the atlantic, tick
mugshots on the intrepid explorers, crossing the atlantic, tick

Proof we crossed the Atlantic We had a fun time despite being ill for quite a while and loved our Atul Kutcher meal on the 25th in the Benares offshoot on board called Sindhu. We sailed 12,865 land miles across the Atlantic on our journey.



Itinerary

Booking Reference: WLHK2R

KEITH HELLINGER No Loyalty Tier: POFP78081M

ANNE HELLINGER No Loyalty Tier: POFP78085Y


Cruise

Number: N803 Ship: Ventura Duration: 35 Nights

Cabin Number: A517 Category: Inside Cabin Deck: A

Bed Configuration: Queen

Dress: Dress Codes for your Cruise: 10 Black Tie Nights, 25 Evening Casual Nights POSH or WHAT


Schedule


05 February Day 1 Southampton Dining:Freedom

Embark Ventura


06 February Day 2 Sea Day Dining:Freedom

07 February Day 3 Sea Day Dining:Freedom

08 February Day 4 Sea Day Dining:Freedom

To see At Sea slideshows , click HERE


09 February Day 5 Ponta Delgada Dining:Freedom

Arrive early morning

Depart early evening

Fire Lakes and Mountains Excursion 09:00

To see Azores slideshows , click HERE

10 February Day 6 Sea Day Dining:Freedom

11 February Day 7 Sea Day Dining:Freedom

12 February Day 8 Sea Day Dining:Freedom

13 February Day 9 Sea Day Dining:Freedom

14 February Day 10 Sea Day Dining:Freedom

15 February Day 11


Barbados Dining:Freedom

Arrive early morning

Depart early evening

Coast to Coast Excursion 09:00

To see Barbados slideshows , click HERE


16 February Day 12 Guadeloupe Dining:Freedom

Arrive early morning

Depart early evening

Botanical Garden & Paradise Excursion 08:30

To see Guadeloupe's slideshows , click HERE


17 February Day 13 Antigua Dining:Freedom

Arrive early morning

Depart afternoon

Antigua Island Sights Excursion 08:45

To see Antigua's slideshows , click HERE


18 February Day 14 At Sea Dining:Freedom


19 February Day 15 Ocho Rios Dining:Freedom

Arrive early afternoon

Depart early evening

Bob Marley by Zion Bus Excursion 12:30

20 February Day 16 Montego Bay Dining:Freedom

Arrive early morning

Depart early evening

To see Jamaica's slideshows, click HERE


21 February Day 17 Sea Day Dining:Freedom


22 February Day 18 Sea Day Dining:Freedom


23 February Day 19 New Orleans Dining:Freedom

Arrive early morning

Overnight In Port

24 February Day 20 New Orleans Dining:Freedom

Depart afternoon To see New Orleans' slideshows, click HERE


25 February Day 21 Sea Day

Table For 2 in Sindhu at 19:00, See HERE, our 40th Wedding Anniversary meal and cards


26 February Day 22 Key West Dining:Freedom

Arrive morning

Depart afternoon Possible Tender - No Harbourside

To see Key West's slideshows, click HERE


27 February Day 23 Port Everglades Dining:Freedom

Arrive early morning

Depart early evening

Snapshot of Miami Excursion 09:45

28 February Day 24 Port Canaveral Dining:Freedom

Arrive early morning

Depart afternoon


See Blog 125 Part 2 continued from now on, this blog has reached its WIX size limit (c 77 mins)

01 March Day 25 Charleston Dining:Freedom

Arrive morning

Charming Charleston Panoramic Excursion 09:30 Overnight In Port

02 March Day 26 Charleston Dining:Freedom

Depart early afternoon


03 March Day 27 Sea Day Dining:Freedom

04 March Day 28 Sea Day Dining:Freedom

05 March Day 29 Sea Day Dining:Freedom

06 March Day 30 Sea Day Dining:Freedom

07 March Day 31 Sea Day Dining:Freedom


08 March Day 32 Sea Day (see below)

Praia DA Vitoria Dining:Freedom

Arrive morning

Depart afternoon

South Island Sights and Angra Excursion 09:45

Sadly NOT Possible due to Storm Riley so day at Sea


09 March Day 33 Sea Day Dining:Freedom

10 March Day 34 Sea Day Dining:Freedom

11 March Day 35 Sea Day Dining:Freedom


12 March Day 36 Southampton

Disembark


It was our 40th Wedding Anniversary treat, what you might call our Ruby cruise! We had a wonderful time visiting some lovely places for the first time and revisiting some we had been to before , namely Key West, Everglades and Cocoa beach at Port Canaveral, all of which lived up to or exceeded our memories. We especially liked Charleston, Key West, Guadaloupe and New Orleans but loved the other places as well and Keef loved his Bob Marley pilgrimage (finally after Ivan in 2004). We had fun on the ship meeting some nice people, getting involved in Murder Mysteries and Cetacean watching (or not as the case was *smile*), swimming, sunbathing, reading, cribbage, qwirkle, music, photography, shows, Thornbridges Jaipur, sea swell, reggae with Serious Sounds from Barbados and, surely not, some very luxury food! We went to Atul Kochhar's restaurant (he owns 2* Michelin Benares in London, Indian/English fusion food) on board for our Ruby Wedding Anniversary meal which was lovely, so many courses we could not manage it all. Keef got 3 new Hard Rock Cafe shirts - New Orleans, Miami & Key West (I have an old one of those already) plus we had the usual HRC choc milk shakes and Local Legendries *smile*. Annie got some custom made jewellry, a lovely leather handbag from the covered town market in Charleston and some Mardi Gras fans. The things we didn't like were illness, end of row syndrome, rudeness of fellow passengers and total ignorance of most common decency etiquettes (i.e. lifts, sunbeds, respect for disabled, leaving performances early) but hey overall the good far outweighed the bad. Also we still feel a little young for cruising *smile*. Here are some formal pictures taken on the Ventura and some of our Ruby Anniversary meal, Love K&A x If you would like to read the detailed copy of the Captains Log Star date 11th March 2018 😉 here it is!




plus the very 1st days internal "newspaper"


plus the ships layout diagram


We were in room A517 on board the Ventura

landing in Antigua


plus the Medevac video on Day 34 , scary CLICK HERE Gallery of our best times, so happy!


At Sea

DAY 1-4 5th-8th Feb 2018 Southampton-Azores DAY 6-10 10th-14th Feb 2018 Azores-Barbados

It was our 40th Wedding Anniversary treat, what you might call our Ruby cruise! We stayed in the Premier Inn at West Quay , Southampton the night before and had a meal in the TGI Fridays over the road plus brekkie in the Premier, full English of course, start the way you mean to continue. The first 3 days were at sea, we left in the dark 1 hour late from Southampton. The next day was the Azores, then 5 further days sailing to Barbados our 1st port of call in the Carribean. Mostly calm seas apart from the Bay of Biscay and very sunny as the got to the Caribbean, so speedos, sunnies and ipod on between cooling dips in the Oasis pool




The Azores, Portugal, Sao Miguel

AY 5 - 9/2/2018 Landed in PONTA DELGADA, SAO MIGUEL, THE AZORES

It was our 40th Wedding Anniversary treat, what you might call our Ruby cruise! We landed in Ponta Delgada and went along slightly early for our Fire Lakes and Mountains excursion and were sent away by our lovely Travel department, luckily we came back early as the coach left 15 minutes early. They failed us on so many occasions we just took no notice of them ever after #thebrokenpromisesbrigade. Anyhow we had a lovely trip to give us a feel of Sao Migual stopping at the Pineapple plantation, that and fresh milk (exported to Madiera etc) are the main produce. We stopped at Ribeira Grande where we were lucky enough to see the kids parading in the Carnival festival (there version of the one in Brazil). Our guide was wonderful. We then climbed up to the highest point on the island, such lush rainforest vegetation , but with low cloud could see naught. Returning to Ponta Delgada we walked along the sea front and into the main town, it was very sunny and we finished with carnival fave Malassada & coffee and good it was too.






Your guide to Ponta Delgada

Ponta Delgada is situated on Sao Miguel island in the Azores. The island’s rugged jutting out into the ocean, sheer cliffs dropping into the sea and sheltered coves, vegetation are reflected in beautiful lakes within the craters of extinct volcanoes.

The Azores are a remote Portuguese, volcanic archipelago in the Atlantic Ocean, consisting of nine islands divided into three groups. They are on approximately the same latitude as Lisbon and Washington DC, and lie about 760 miles west of Portugal.

The date of the discovery of the Azores remains somewhat uncertain, although Arabian geographers in the 12th and 14th centuries made mention of several islands in the Western Ocean, other than the Canaries. They also noted that these islands appeared to be inhabited by a large number of birds of prey, and it is from this reference that the present name is derived. The Portuguese word for hawk is agor.

Gongalo Valho Cabral brought in the first Portuguese settlers in 1439, but from 1580 to 1640 the islands were subject, like the rest of the Portuguese kingdom, to Spain. During this time they became an important meeting place for Spanish treasure fleets homeward bound from the Indies, and they were a place of maritime warfare between the English and Peninsular powers. In 1591, just off the coast of Flores, a famous sea battle took place between the Revenge (commanded by Sir Richard Grenville) and a Spanish fleet of 53 ships.

The islands of the Azores are volcanic in origin and have been shaped into their present form by various geographical phenomena. Fortunately, earthquakes of major consequence are extremely rare, particularly in the Eastern Azores, and there have been no recorded volcanic eruptions since 1957.

The Azores have a temperate climate due to their location in relation to the Gulf Stream and there’s an annual mean temperature of 64°F (18°C). The coldest month is February and the warmest month is August, when the temperature rises into the 80s°F (approx 27°C). The best time of year to visit the Azores is April to October. During the winter, they are renowned for being rather damp and occasional southwesterly gales are known to blow in.

The vegetation is remarkably beautiful and varied, and practically anything which grows in temperate or subtropical zones absolutely flourishes. The Azores abound in wonderful woodlands, groves of camellia trees, cannas, and azaleas, forests of tree ferns, tea plantations, splendid pastures and hedgerows of blue hydrangeas. Land commands a high price owing to • the possibility of getting three to four crops from it every year.

Sao Miguel (St Michael's) has been christened “The Green Island”, and the explosively fertile soil has earned the island this popular nickname.

The most important trade is that of dairy products and live cattle, both of which are exported to the island of Madeira and Portugal. Other exports include beet-sugar, alcohol, tea, tobacco, cereals and tinned fish.

The production and export of pineapples is also a trade of major importance to the Azores, and there are several pineapple establishments in the suburbs of Ponta Delgada and Vila Franca do Campo, on the south coast. Pineapples are only grown on Sao Miguel under glass, with no artificial heat being used and it takes around 24 months to obtain a fruit ready for the market. Exports from Ponta Delgada tota approximately one and a half million fruits a year. Owing to their exceptionally fine quality and careful selection, Sao Miguel pineapples fetch good prices in Lisbon and several other European markets.

There are many hot springs of great interest in the Azores, as a result of the volcanic origin of the archipelago. Of special note are the spas of Furnas on Sao Miguel, Varadouro on Faial and Carapacho on Graciosa. There are also many springs of mineral rich, medicinal waters; some of which are tapped commercially.

coastline is a mixture of headlands Mountains and valleys covered in lush

BEYOND PONTA DELGADA

Sete Cidades

10 miles North West of Ponta Delgada, means Seven Cities. Whether these existed at one time or not no one knows, but visitors come to admire the ethereal beauty of the area’s two lakes that lay in a circumference of eight miles. Sete Cidades is one of the smallest parishes of Ponta Delgada by population and also the largest in area because it’s located in the centre of a massive volcanic crater (three miles across) that’s also referred to as Sete Cidades.

The natural setting of this part of the Island is enchanting and will appeal to any nature lover or budding photographer.

Fire Lake

15 miles east of Ponta Delgada, in the centre of the island, is Fire Lake; in the crater of another extinct volcano. For more than 400 years, the crater has been filled with fresh, clean water and it’s now a lake that reflects endless surrounding natural beauty. Fire Lake is one of Ponta Delgada’s top natural tourist attractions and people come from far and wide to bathe in the nearby mineral rich waters that are believed to have healing properties.

Furnas Valley

25 miles east of Ponta Delgada is an area that proves the Azores’ volcanic origin. Furnas Valley is Europe’s richest hydrological centre with more than 20 mineral springs that belch, bubble and spray hot water and mud into an atmosphere that’s laden with Sulphur.

Grey, hot slime covers part of the area, rock faces are hot to the touch, steam puffs out of any hole in the earth and yellow bubbles burst as they are released from the earth. For several hundred years, housewives have cooked their sweet potatoes in the hot ground here and visitors have come to take the healing waters. Pay a visit to the Terra Nostra Hotel if you’re in the area to explore the gardens and the lake which are both well worth seeing.

EXPLORING

Sao Miguel

The largest and most important of the Azorean islands, is Sao Miguel which houses more than half of the archipelago’s population of 260,000. Sao Miguel (with its 140,000 residents) is roughly 39 miles long and 10 miles wide. Its capital, Ponta Delgada, lies on the south coast with an excellent harbour and a population of 70,000 people. Ponta Delgada has only been the island’s capital since 1546. Before then, Sao Miguel was governed from Vila Franca do Campo, further along the coast.

The main monuments of the Azores are the islands’ numerous churches built during many centuries of history from settlement times up to the present day. Their interiors of carved and gilded work, wood inlay and valuable azulejos (coloured, painted, glazed tiles) are veritable works of art. Besides the great number of churches and convents, some now housing museums, simple chapels and shrines of great charm are also scattered all over the island. There are also old forts, commemorative pillars, statues and busts that all mark famous dates and names in the history of the Azores.

Ponta Delgada

The largest city on Sao Miguel and the principal port of the eastern group of islands is Ponta Delgada; an old town of characteristic narrow roads and winding cobbled streets. The main avenues and highways are excellent and a day’s exploration could lead you from trodden tourist paths to undiscovered historical gems. Lovers of Madeira’s Funchal and Portugal’s Lisbon will feel at home in Ponta Delgada. The buildings are whitewashed with wooden balconies, the streets are paved with mosaics and ornate churches decorate almost every street. There’s a lovely, safe and friendly atmosphere in Ponta Delgada and when the jacaranda trees are in bloom, the bright purple blossom perfectly complements the black and white pavements and facades.

There are a few noteworthy buildings in the town:

The Igreja do Colegio is an 18th century church of late baroque architecture with a wonderfully carved high altar. This church formed part of a very rich convent founded by the Jesuits in the early 17th century.

Sao Sebastiao is the 16th century parish church with a southern fagade of Renaissance design. The main facade is influenced by the Manueline style which is most popular and commonly found in mainland Portugal. The choir stalls are carved cedar

wood and are decorated with other exotic woods like palisander. The statue of St. Sebastian on the high altar, pierced with arrows, bears an uncanny resemblance to Liberace. Valuable vestments embroidered in gold are on show, and the church is largely whitewashed like almost all the other buildings on the island.

Convento da boa Esperanga

Famous for the image of Christ, given by Pope Paul III in 1530, this church has been accumulating jewels and gifts for over 300 years. The chapel where the most treasured possessions are kept is completely lined with azulejos showing colourful, biblical scenes.

The museum of Carlos Machado is housed in a 16th century convent in Rua Joao Moreira (Dr Guilherme Pogas 65) and has several interesting ethnographic collections. It also contains works by local and foreign painters and sculptors, together with exhibitions of religious art, tiles and a wonderful collection of over 2000 bird species. St Andrew’s Church, which adjoins the museum, contains some remarkable wood carvings. Sao Jose has painted vaults over the three naves and a baroque Pieta in the baptismal chapel, while Sao Pedro towards the eastern end of this two mile long town is also worthy of inspection for its treasury. When it comes to secular architecture, have a look at the Fort of Sao Bras just outside the port area and you cannot miss the Triumphal Arch in the centre of town.

Art and Architecture Azulejos

These are coloured tiles painted and cleverly fitted together to create entire scenes. The first Portuguese azulejos were blue, or azul, hence the name. The idea of painting tiles came from the Moors and by the 17th century the Portuguese had mastered the craft so deftly, that it has since come to be associated almost solely with Portugal. Yellow, purple and green eventually joined the blue, followed by landscape and hunting scenes and abstract patterns. All kinds of buildings including churches, town halls, railway stations and private houses were decorated inside and out with azulejos and now they are everywhere to be seen in and around the city.

Talha dourada

Carved woodwork (talha) was popular for church interiors from the 15th century, but the influx of gold from Brazil in the early 18th century led to the gilding of woodwork. Some of Sao Miguel’s churches stand today, quite sober-looking from the outside, but gleam with gold on the inside.

EATING OUT

The geographical situation, the climate and the immense wealth of natural resources are responsible for the diversity of the cuisine on the Azores. The soil here is explosively fertile meaning that fresh produce grows in abundance.

Local favourites include homemade soups, fresh fish and seafood, locally sourced meat and a great selection of sweets. These include:

Seafood: Cavacos, lobster, barnacles, crab, Caldeirada de peixe (fish chowder), polvo guisado em vinho de cheiro (octopus cooked in wine), arroz de lapas (limpets), and lapas de molho Afonso, ensopado de trutas (trout stew).

Meat: chourigo com inhames (spiced sausage with yams), torresmos de moiho de figado (pork liver), and cozido das Furnas (meat and vegetables that are boiled in the heat of the earth at places where geothermal energy appears at the surface).

Cheese: Queijo da llha or fresh goat’s cheese.

Sweets: Bolo levedo (sweet muffin), barriga de freira (bread pudding) massa sovada (sweet bread).

The old brandy of Graciosa and the passion fruit and pineapple liqueurs of Sao Miguel are popular specialties in the Azores and they make good souvenirs and gifts as well as local delicacies to sample while you’re ashore.

Wine

The best known wines of the Azores are the verdelhos of Pico (which achieved fame as far away as the Court of Imperial Russia), but on Granciosa and Terceira some fine table wines are also produced, particularly the white wines. On nearly all of the Azorean islands there are the traditional vinhos de cheiro or morangueiro which have many keen enthusiasts. The best known are those of Caioura (Sao Miguel), Biscoitos (Terceira) and Sao Lourengo (Santa Maria), not forgetting a variety of wines from Pico.

GETTING AROUND

The terminal building in Ponta Delgada is split across two levels. Shore excursions depart from the car park on the upper floor accessible by stairs and lift. The ground level exit leads to the pedestrian walkway (to the town centre, via shops and cafes) and to available taxis.

Car hire

Varela Rent a Car: www.varelarentacar.com Micauto: www.micauto.com Autatlantis: www.autatlantis.com

Taxis

These are readily available. It is always advisable to negotiate a price with the driver before setting off on a journey. Most taxi drivers speak little English so ensure you have the means of explaining where you want to go and what time you need to get back to the ship.

HANDY TIPS

• The tap water is not always potable, so only drink bottled water.

• It is forbidden to sunbathe topless in the Azores.

• It is not acceptable to photograph people without asking for their permission.

• Tips and gifts compensate for quality

of service. It is therefore customary to leave a 5% tip in restaurants and to taxi drivers.

• Do not buy souvenirs made from sea based creatures.

SHOPPING

The Azorean archipelago, with its rich history and many traditions, is known for its arts and handicrafts. Artisans have saved and developed their workmanship techniques through the centuries and the handicrafts of the Azores include some that are now ancient in origin. Due to their isolated location Azorean craftsmen use primarily raw materials such as wood, fish scales, whale bone and teeth, basalt, hydrangea, piths, potter’s earth and corn leaves. Best buys

Colorful! pottery from Sao Miguel

Embroidery and lace from Sao Miguel,

Terceira, Pico and Faial

Woodwork created from fig

Wickerwork

Wheat straw decoration

Scrimshaws (works of art carved from the teeth and jaws of the sperm whale)

Pineapple and passion fruit liqueurs.

Most shops are dosed on Sundays, even when a cruise ship is in port, however the Sol Mar Shopping Centre and the new Parque Atlantico Mall in Ponta Delgada, are open daily from 9.30am-10.00pm every day.

ACTIVITIES

Beaches

Ponta Delgada’s beaches have black volcanic sand and are washed by the cold waters of the Atlantic Ocean. During the months of July and August a few beaches (Praia do Populo, 3 miles from Ponta Delgada and Agua D’Alto, 14 miles away) have facilities and the waters are generally safe to swim in. There are swimming facilities in the cruise ship harbour, near to the marina with steps and pontoons leading down to the sea from the waterfront.

Golf

There are two courses on Ponta Delgada (Batalha Golf Course, over to the west of the island and Furnas Golf Club, over to the east). Both courses have 18 holes, and clubs and trolleys can be hired.


Barbados - The Caribbean

DAY 11 - 15/2/2018 Landed in BRIDGETOWN , BARBADOS, Windward Islands, West Indies " Woah, I'm going to Barbados, back to the palm trees, in the sunny Caribbean sea "

It was our 40th Wedding Anniversary treat, what you might call our Ruby cruise! We landed in Bridgetown and went on the Coast to Coast excursion which was a great way to get a look and feel of the diversity of the island. We especially liked the flowers and the lovely beach town of Bathsheba. On the trip we drove through Bridgetown, originally known as Indian Bridge, named after the old bridge which crosses the Constitution River. On the trip we visited the highest point, St Johns church with great views over the Caribbean sea. There are quite a few pictures taken there. Here is an extract from plaque on the church wall " This beautiful church is on the site of the earliest wooden church of 1645.The first stone church was built in 1660, for 110,000 pounds of sugar. It was badly damaged in the 1675 hurricane and rebuilt in 1676-7. This church was badly damaged in the 1780 hurricane, restored and destroyed in the 1831 hurricane. The present fourth church was completed in 1836 and the chancel added in 1876. Its pure Gothic design was influenced by Bishop William Hart Coleridge, first Anglican Bishop.The Vestry Hall above was the meeting place of the Parish Vestry, comprising elected landowners, which ran the affairs of the Parish until 1939. It is named for church patriarchs Mr. Eustace Gill and Mr.Thorne Gollop.". After the trip we took a walk through the craft market listening to the rap music in the sun, had a look at the fish market , flying fish is a local delicacy, and a stroll back along the waterfront gardens in Bridgetown. It was a very hot day. Keef especially liked adding to his collection of photos of world cricket venues with a snap of the Kensington Oval. Now remind me who was Captain Tobias Willcox?


Bathsheba beach





Your guide to Barbados

Beautiful beaches, warm blue sea and sun-drenched days, Barbados offers all the features of a tropical island. Its people are especially warm and welcoming and there is still an inescapable colonial ‘feel’ that adds to the island’s unique atmosphere and special style.

Barbados is the most easterly island in the West Indies, out of the chain of Leeward and Windward Islands. The island stands in splendid isolation with the powerful Atlantic Ocean on its east coast and the clear, calm waters of the Caribbean Sea on the south and west coasts. Measuring 21 miles long and 14 miles at its widest point (and with an overall area of only 166 square miles), the island is scarcely larger than the Isle of Wight. Mount Hillaby, in the northern centre is the highest point at 1,115 feet. The climate is a holiday-maker’s dream - tropical, but tempered by the sea breeze from the north-east. The temperature hardly varies from 24 - 27°C (75 - 80°F) and humidity is pleasantly low.

From its founding in 1627 to its independence in 1966, the island was a British colony and, unlike the rest of its Caribbean neighbours, was never taken by force. It has an endearing blend of British and West Indian cultures, which allied to the Bajan’s reputation as the friendliest people in the Caribbean, weaves a potent spell.

EXPLORING

Bridgetown - the Capital

Cruise ships berth just outside of Bridgetown, and almost at once you realise why Barbados is known throughout the Caribbean as ‘Little England’. The market town atmosphere, Georgian houses, Parliament Square, neo-Gothic public buildings, and cricket ground, to say nothing of the signposts to Hastings and Worthing, all contribute to the impression. Of the total population of nearly 300,000 people, more than a third of them live in the capital, Bridgetown.

The Careenage

An inlet of the sea, which cuts right into the heart of the town and its wharf is a fascinating melee of colour and energy. Merchant and navy sailing ships used to lie aground here at low tide for hull repairs.

It is now a pleasant marina where small yachts and pleasure craft moor. Larger yachts, of which there is no shortage in the Caribbean, anchor just south of the town in Carlisle Bay.

Heroes Square

This is the civic heart of the town, and its focal point is the statue of Nelson, erected in 1813 on the site of ‘The Green’ where hansom cabs once waited for fares. The Admiral spent some time here during his command of the naval station at English Harbour, Antigua. In the square stand the Renaissance-style Public Buildings of coral rock and the island’s chief administrative offices (opened in 1874). Here the Barbados Parliament meets and conducts its work. The open arcades have Gothic instead of the usual rounded arches, and the windows are stained glass portraits of all the monarchs of Great Britain from James I. In the neighbouring streets there are a number of elegant Georgian houses, now used mainly as shops or offices, though some are still privately occupied.

Bay Mansion

This Mansion, in Bay Street, is one of the great houses of the past, with parts dating back to 1750.

St Michael’s Cathedral, off St Michael’s Row, originally 17th century, was rebuilt in coral rock in 1780 after being destroyed in a hurricane. The font dates from 1680 and has inscribed round the top in capital letters a Greek palindrome of which the translation is ‘Wash the sin, not merely the skin’.

Government House

A serene white mansion with flower-filled gardens, lies to the east of the Cathedral on the edge of the town. This is the official office and residence of the Governor general of Barbados.

On the Garrison, 1 1 /2 miles south of the town is a block of red brick buildings, once the quarters of British officers and NCOs. Since 1905, it’s been occupied by government and public officials. Also note the Main Guard House with Clock Tower.

The Garrison Savannah

The Garrison Savannah was formerly the parade ground for Britain’s largest overseas garrison. Today it’s a lovely expanse of 50 acres devoted to walking, recreation and sport and it’s ringed by a horse racing track. The building with the clock tower, once the guard room, also used to house the famous Savannah Club. Queen’s Park

When the garrison left Barbados in 1905, Queen’s House, the official residence of the officer commanding the troops, was purchased by the Government. The grounds, now known as Queen’s Park, were laid out with a lake, terrace and parterres and were opened to the public in 1909. Look out for the Baobab tree that’s over 1000 years old.

Barbados Museum

Nearby is the Barbados Museum, housed in a former British military prison. The Museum takes you on a fascinating journey from the pre-Columbian period, through Barbados’ history to modern times. On display is some fine furniture imported from England in the 18th century to grace the mansions of the rich plantation owners.

The reference library documents the history of the island, exhibiting old newspapers, books and records of interest. There are also displays of geology and natural history. Art and other exhibitions are regularly arranged. The Museum is open Monday to Saturday from 9.00am - 5.00pm. (except public holidays - when it closes) and from 2.00pm - 6.00pm on Sundays.

George Washington’s House

This house stands on Bush Hill, a mile from the town centre. It was acquired by the Barbados National Trust and is a popular historical tourist attraction. The great American statesman visited Barbados in 1751 when he was a 19-year-old major in the British army. With his brother he stayed seven weeks and is reported to have rented the house for £15 a month ‘exclusive of liquor and washing’. Open from Monday - Friday from 9.00am -4.30pm.

Jewish Synagogue

The Jewish Synagogue dates back to the 1650s, making it one of the two oldest synagogues in the western hemisphere. It is a Barbados National Trust protected building and is a must for anyone interested in cultural and archaeological history.

Not only has the structure been preserved, but the Synagogue has been restored to its original purpose as a house of prayer. The Synagogue is located on Synagogue Lane and is open Monday - Friday 9.00am -12.00 noon and 1.00pm -4.00pm.

Kensington Oval Cricket Ground

Sports lovers may stretch their legs with the short stroll from the centre of Bridgetown to the Kensington Oval Cricket Ground where the West Indies have so often demonstrated their flair and brilliance at the game which is not only a national passion, but also the most concrete bond between the countries of the Caribbean. On any beach or clear patch of ground in Barbados you may see a game of cricket being played, and perhaps catch a glimpse of a youngster with enough talent to follow in the footsteps of the hero of the island, the great Sir Garfield Sobers.

The Island

At only 21 miles from north to south, and 14 miles east to west, no part of Barbados is far from reach. With the exception of the Scotland district in the north-east, the island is of coral formation and is almost surrounded (except at its one harbour and the open roadstead of Carlisle Bay) by coral reefs - extending in some parts three miles out to sea. The soil, though fertile, has little depth and due to its porous nature there are no rivers or streams worthy of mention. The principal industry is tourism, closely followed by sugar and its byproducts. More than three-fifths of the island is under the cultivation of sugar cane. The island also produces around 40% of its oil requirements.

The Landscape

Barbados does not have the striking heights and lush tropical forests of some other West Indian islands, but there is plenty of variety. The highest point is Mt Hillaby (1115 feet) and the steeply descending east coast on the Atlantic is not unlike Cornwall, with its long stretches of superb and surprisingly undercrowded surf beaches interrupted by dramatic rocks. The Atlantic rollers come crashing in, accompanied by the constant breeze of the north-east trade winds that make the climate of Barbados so pleasant.

In the flatter parts of the island, hamlets and villages appear in the seemingly endless forest of whispering sugar cane, which grows to a height of 8 to 10 feet before it is reaped. At harvest time, the quiet back roads of the countryside are filled with trailer after trailer of cane, and soon the rich sweet smell of sugar being processed hangs in the air. Even the most diet­conscious will be tempted by the aroma and taste of fresh sticky brown sugar. Sugar cane, introduced from Brazil in 1640, has become the island’s principal export and for many years now an average of 65,000 tons of sugar has been produced per year. The cane is generally harvested between January and July, but it has an 18 month cycle so you may see it in various stages of development.

Flora and Fauna

Although the gently undulating roads of the island have been likened to southern England, the scenery is truly West Indian. Hedges of pink and purple bougainvillea, oleander and hibiscus are dwarfed by rows of royal palms raising their plumed heads high against a bright blue sky.

The numerous villages of chattel houses, standing among banana and breadfruit trees, are built on coral piles high off the ground, and on the steps of these little cabins, people ‘chill out’ - which means doing nothing in particular - simply chatting and watching the world go by.

Among the bushes, the yellow-breasted finch and the comicai blackbird-like grackle squabble continuously, while, darting from one flower-head to another, the tiny dark green, black-winged humming bird can be seen in its shimmering display of aerobatics. There are also two kinds of dove - the pinky-brown turtle dove, whose inconsolable call sounds softly in the trees, and the small ground dove.

A stroll in the cool of the evening may reward you with the sight of whole trees illuminated by fireflies. The visitor is unlikely to meet anything more threatening than toads, ants, and the endearing green lizard (much respected because he keeps down The population of flies!). In the country, you might see a mongoose scuttling across the lane - these are furry creatures with squirrel like tails that were brought from India in the late 1800’s to combat the problem of rats, which threatened the sugar industry. You may also see the green monkey which originated from Africa and was originally considered a pest by farmers. The Sabin Polio Vaccine comes from the green monkey and one green monkey can provide up to 2.5 million doses of polio vaccine. The Primate Research Centre and Wildlife Reserve (Farley Hill, St Peter) is responsible for up to 70% of the world’s Polio vaccines.

HANDY TIPS

• It is illegal to wear clothing that is of camouflage design in Barbados

• The people of Barbados are encouraging visitors to the island to ‘think green' and help them preserve their island’s beautiful environment. They believe that many of the solutions to environmental problems lie with individuals themselves. We would ask our passengers to support the islanders in their eco-drive. Here are a few ways in which you can help:

• Protect the coral reef - do not stand on it or touch it. Coral or coral jewellery should not be purchased as a souvenir.

• Buy local produce and support stores trying to preserve the environment.

• Keep the island tidy - do not drop litter.

• Never damage trees, plants or wildlife.

• Support the National Trust, botanical gardens and wildlife reserves. Remember - take nothing but pictures, leave nothing but footprints

BEYOND BRIDGETOWN

Speightstown

This town is 12 miles north of Bridgetown and is the second largest town on the island. It was once an important shipping centre and is known as ‘Little Bristol’ from its considerable trade with that English port. St. Peter’s Church is located here and this is one of the oldest churches in Barbados. As a result of countless tragedies and re-building programmes, no records have suvived. Today's church and grounds offer a lovely insight to the past though so it’s well worth a visit.

Holetown

A monument, raised in 1905, which commemorates the first landing of the English in 1525 can be seen in Holetown. Barbados’ first settlement was originally called Jamestown in honour of James I, but its name was changed to reflect the very small channel that allowed the off loading and cleaning of visiting ships. The Barbados National Trust owns Welchman Hall Gully, just east of Holetown. This wooded ravine has been developed as a garden of tropica! trees, fruit trees, shrubs and flowering plants, and has several caves that can be explored.

Gun Hill Signal Station

A patriotic Captain H J Wilkinson made his mark on the slopes below Gun Hill in 1868 when he caved a lion out of a single piece of rock which has been kept white ever since. Gun Hill, six miles east of Bridgetown, was the barracks and watchtower of the Colonial Troops. The signal station, which has a superb panoramic view, was completely restored by the Barbados National Trust and is open from Monday to Saturday 9.00am - 5.00pm. Note repairs are ongoing and unexpected closures may occur. Check with Tourist Information on the day.

Orchid World

Is a “paradise found" for lovers of orchids. Orchids are grown in beautiful surroundings with coral rock gardens, cool shady gullies and ponds and running water. It is situated on Highway 3B, between Cun Hill and St John’s Church. Open daily 9.00am - 4.00pm Closed Mondays from May 15- October 15. (admission charge)

St John’s Church

St John’s Church stands on Barbados' east coast near the edge of an 824 feet high cliff and commands an extensive view of the coral-fringed windward coast. The little church contains work by Sir Richard Westmacott who sculpted Bridgetown’s statue of Nelson. The pulpit is made from six different woods, four of them local - ebony, locust, oak, mahogany, pine and manchineel - and the galleries are supported by columns of cedar.

Codrington College

Codrington College, also in the parish of St John, is a place of great dignity and peace, approached through a glorious avenue of palms. The founder of the college, Christopher Codrington, a governor of the Leeward Islands, was born in the house, which he bequeathed to the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel in 1710. It now houses the Theological College of the West Indies. The east coast of the parish of St Joseph, this is one of the highest parts of the island at 997 feet. Here you can take in the attractive, panoramic views over the entire east coast. According to legend the cliff is named after a man who committed suicide by riding his horse over the cliff.

Hastings, Worthing and St Lawrence

These are seaside residential districts just south of Bridgetown with a number of first-class hotels and excellent bathing.

Bathsheba

This is a seaside resort on the east coast. This area is known as the “soup bowl” and is considered to be the most scenic part of the island with rolling Atlantic waves and long stretches of golden sands set against a backdrop of hills.

The Andromeda Gardens

These gardens have an astonishing array of plants from all over the tropical world; and through them winds a babbling stream forming pools and waterfalls. The garden is internationally famous and represents what is perhaps the best collection of exotic tropical flowers and plants to be found in the Caribbean.

There are many rare species and hybrids and at all times of the year there are masses of brightly coloured blooms and foliage. Open 9.00am to 4.30pm (entrance fee).

Sunbury Plantation House

One of the last remaining sugar plantation houses open to visitors. Sunbury Plantation House is over 300 years old, and restored after a recent fire, boasts a great number of antiques, old prints and photographs and old machinery used in cultivation of crops, which are on display throughout the estate. Open daily from 9.00am to 5.00pm (last tour at 4.30pm).

Tyrol Cot House and Chattel Village

Tyrol Cot was the family residence of Barbados’ first premier Sir Grantley Adams and also his son Tom Adams (Barbados’ second Prime Minister),

It is considered to be the birthplace of Barbadian Democracy and is filled with collections of Adams’ antique furniture arid memorabilia. The adjacent Chattel Village contains a replica of an 1820’s Slave Hut, Blacksmith Shop and Bajan Rum Shop. Open daily from 8.00am - 4.30pm (last tour at 4.00pm).

The Mount Gay Experience

Is the home of the oldest rum in the world. Built in a traditional Barbadian “Chattle House" you will find a Visitors Centre where one can take a tour and experience the fascinating process of producing the world’s finest rum. Situated at Spring Garden Highway, St Michael. Open Monday - Friday 9.00am - 5.00pm and Saturday 10.00am - 4.00pm.

EATING OUT

There is a distinctive Barbadian cuisine, although most hotels and restaurants - many of them with Swiss or French-trained chefs - offer a European-inspired menu, plus Californian-style barbecues. Occasionally you can find local specialties on offer. These could be black pudding (a highly-seasoned sausage stuffed with minced pork and sweet potatoes, souse (spiced pork made from pig’s head and tongue), cou-cou (a kind of cornmeal puree) and cassava pone (a baked concoction of cassavas and dried coconut). Flying fish - you may see their glittering acrobatics from the deck of the ship - provide the bulk of the fishermen’s catch and appear on menus in many different forms. Other seafoods are lobster, crabs, octopus (called sea-cat), jacks and sprats.

Fruits include mangoes, paw-paws, bananas, guavas, and avocados, along with more exotic soursops and Barbados cherries.

Rum is, of course, an irresistible buy in Barbados, both white and dark. Favourite brands are Cockspur, Mount Gay, and Dooriy’s Macaw. Barbados is generally accepted as the birthplace of rum or “rumbullion” as it was called in the mid 1600’s. The name probably had something to do with “rumbustious” behaviour of seafarers at the Bridgetown waterfront! Take advantage of sampling the “liquid gold” in the land of sunshine where it is produced. Whisky and other spirits can be bought duty-free. The local beers, such as Banks Beer, are best enjoyed ice-cold in the shade beside one of the countless little roadside bars. A unique Barbadian drink you may wish to try is Mauby, brewed from bark, sugar and spices. Barbados, drinking water is rated as one of the purest in the world - rainwater is naturally filtered as it percolates through the coral rock.

ACTIVITIES

Beaches

The island has so many fine white sandy beaches you’ll be spoilt for choice. Those on the west coast offer lake-calm swimming, while the east coast provides excellent surfing at the Soup Bowl (this is where the professional surfers surf). Beaches going north from Bridgetown along the Platinum Coast are Payne’s Bay, Sandy Lane Bay, Gibb’s Bay, and Mullin’s Bay. The fine hotels along this coast have excellent bathing facilities. The nearest beaches are Carlisle Bay, Dover Beach and Accra Beach - all located to the south and east of Bridgetown.

Swimming on the east coast at Bathsheba/ Cattlewash is extremely dangerous due to the size of the waves and the strength of the currents.

Watersports

These include waterskiing, windsurfing, snorkeling, parasailing, banana boats and surfing. For scuba diving consider wreck dives from Carlisle Bay and at Folkestone Marine Park.

Golf

There are 3 golf courses on Barbados; Sandy Lane championship Golf Club, St James, is 5 miles north of Bridgetown and has an 18-hole championship course.

Rockley Golf Club has a 9 hole course and is 6 miles from Bridgetown. Barbados Golf Club has an 18 hole course and is 9 miles from the capital.

Clubs and carts can be hired at all golf courses.

SHOPPING

Shopping hours are from 8.30am - 4.30pm with early closing on Saturdays although some stores may stay open late while the ship is in port. Most shops in Bridgetown will be closed on public holidays, however those in the Cruise Terminal normally remain open. Please note that it is not customary to bargain when shopping in Barbados.

Many stores will display two prices. DF = Duty Free. Foreigners to Barbados will pay Duty Free prices wherever DF is printed on a price label. There are numerous stores and malls selling a wide range of local souvenirs.

Best buys

Hand-made straw hats

Baskets

Mats

Wood and ceramic items

Hand-embroidered Sea Island cotton

Dresses

Local art work

GETTING AROUND

Docking information

Dependent on which cruise ship berth is used, minibuses may be arranged to take passengers from the berth to the Customs Hall. Passengers are allowed to walk, but it can take up to ten minutes. No public transport or cars are allowed into the dock area.

Car hire

The major international car hire companies are not represented, but there are several local companies. You will be required to obtain a temporary drivers permit which can be obtained from your rental company at a cost of B’Dos $10.00 or any local police station on production of your UK drivers license and is valid for one year.

Courtesy Rent-a-car: courtesyrentacar.com National Car Rentals Ltd: nationalcar.com Corbin’s Car Rentals: corbinscars.com Drive-A-Matic (Located in the Cruise Terminal): carhire.tv

The speed limit in Barbados is 37 miles per hour (60 km) - in keeping with the slow pace of life. Driving is on the left, reflecting the British influence on the island.

Taxis

Taxis are plentiful and generally have set rates. It is always advisable to agree the price beforehand for longer journeys.

Buses

An island-wide service connects the eleven parishes with Bridgetown. Transport Board buses are blue with a yellow stripe and private minibuses are yellow with a blue stripe. Another option includes ZR vans which are painted white with a maroon stripe. These are known for their high speed, loud music and packing in as many passengers as possible.

The Bridgetown bus terminal is near the Pelican Craft Village. There is also another bus terminal in the center of Bridgetown which is the called the Fairchild Bus Terminal and is located in Heroes Square.


Guadeloupe - Caribbean

DAY 12 - 16/2/18 Landed Pointe-a-Pitre & Visited Deshaies, Guadeloupe, Windward Islands, West Indies

It was our 40th Wedding Anniversary treat, what you might call our Ruby cruise! We loved Guadeloupe, landing in Pointe-A-Pitre, which looked a little run down, we did the "Death in Paradise" tour to Deshaies including the fabulous Jardin Botanique , via Saint Rose on Basse Terre , it is the Butterfly island and this is on the left wing. We saw the church and what doubles as the Police station in the crime drama and had a drink in Catherine's bar (see picture above). We also got a glimpse of the beach where they set up and remove the house where Harry the CGI stays during filming. Duane loves the island so much , as we do, he bought a house there. The Botanic gardens were spectacular. It is a French colony and we loved it so much we would like to return.





So French, So Beautiful.....

Your Guide to Guadeloupe

This ‘butterfly’ settled on the Caribbean Sea centuries ago and belying the general reputation of the species, it has survived tribulations that would have destroyed the more fragile of its kind. Guadeloupe is actually two islands joined by a bridge that crosses the Riviere Salee hence its ‘butterfly’ appearance.

Golden beaches rimmed with coconut palms, crysta blue seas, and a feeling that all is exotic and unusual sums up Guadeloupe. This French island has been called the “Emerald Island” for its incredible flora of a thousand tropical scents, or “Butterfly Island” as its shape resembles a butterfly with outspread wings.

The two ‘butterfly wings’, Basse-Terre and Grande- Terre, are separated by a narrow channel and connected by a bridge.

Basse-Terre, regardless of any logic that its name might imply, is a mountainous island reaching a maximum height of 1,467 m (4,813 ft) at Mount Soufriere. It rains more often here than on Grande- Terre, however this is the region of tropical flora, with iush greens, waterfalls, banana fields and volcanic craters. Grande-Terre, home of sugar cane, windmills and white beaches with clear blue waters protected by coral reefs, is much flatter than its neighbour. Most of the facilities, including Pointe-a- Pitre, are here.

Christopher Columbus landed on the eastern side of Basse-Terre on 4 November 1493 during his second voyage to the New World. He named the island

“Santa Maria de Guadalupe de Estremadura” either in thanks for the saint's protection during a storm on his first voyage or to fulfil a promise made to the monks of the Spanish monastery of that name. The name “Guadeloupe” is derived from the Arabic meaning “The River of Love”. The then residents, Carib Indians, called it Karukera - “Isle of Beautiful Waters”.

The Spanish made half-hearted attempts to settle on the island; the Caribs made strenuous, and successful efforts to prevent them. However, the French were less easily discouraged and in 1635 some 500 colonists arrived from France. After initial problems, the Caribs were defeated and African slaves were introduced to work in the sugar plantations. In 1674 Guadeloupe was formally annexed by France.

The British also wanted the island and even took control of it in 1759 for a few years. Later in the 18th century, the French Revolution reached the Caribbean. The British supported the Royalists against the revolutionaries and, in 1794, again ruled the island. The notorious Committee of Public Safety in Paris sent Victor Hugues and a small army

to sort it all out. The British were defeated, and the guillotine did a thriving business in Pointe-a-Pitre where many aristocrats were executed. Others fled into the hills, where their descendants still live today.

Hugues abolished slavery in 1794, but Napoleon was clearly not impressed and not only sacked him, but also reintroduced slavery in 1802. The British continued to dispute the ownership of Guadeloupe and took the island again in 1810. However, the Treaty of Paris in 1815 gave Guadeloupe to France.

In 1848, thanks to the efforts of Victor Schoelcher, the 93,000 slaves were freed. To replace them, the plantation owners turned to indentured workers from India.

n 1946 Guadeloupe became a department of France and in 1974 Guadeloupe and the Islands of Saint-Martin, Saint-Barthelemy (St Barts), La Desirade, Marie-Galante and Les Saintes were constituted as a region of France. On 15th July 2007 the island communes of Saint-Martin and Saint-Barthelemy (St Barts) were officially detatched from Guadeloupe and became two separate French overseas collectivities.

EXPLORING

Pointe-a-Pitre

Although the city of Basse-Terre is the capital, Pointe- a-Pitre is the largest town, the dominant commercial centre and the chief port of Guadeloupe. Its name is derived from Pieter, a Dutch fisherman who came to Guadeloupe after being expelled from Brazil by the Portuguese in the 17th century. Pieter’s Point soon became Pointe-a-Pitre, although it was not until 1759 that the British improved the natural harbour and a town was founded. Today, about 17,500 people live in the town which is a mixture of old colonial buildings, high-rise apartments, small typical Caribbean houses and an industrial area.

Pointe-a-Pitre has survived several natural disasters in the last 150 years. An earthquake in 1843 wrecked much of the town; the 1899 fire destroyed one-third of it, and hurricanes in 1928 and 1989 did extensive damage.

Everything worth seeing is only a short walk from the Place de la Victoire. The various street markets - around the harbour and slightly further inland at the junction of rues Peynier and Frebault - are particularly lively in the morning.

Harbourside

Ferries leave from the old port (La Darse) to the islands of Marie-Galante and Les Saintes. Buses

to Gosier, the island’s main resort, leave from the quayside.

Centre St-John-Perse

Old warehouses have been transformed into a modern complex - named after the winner of the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1960 - of shops, restaurants and a tourist information booth.

Place de la Victoire

This garden square, bordered by colonial style houses with balconies and shutters, is the hub of the town. The royal palms and sandbox trees were planted by Victor Hugues the day after his victory over the British in 1794. Shortly afterwards, Hugues put a guillotine in the square and possibly as many as 500 aristocrats were executed. The main tourist office is in the south­west corner - it is a good example of French colonial architecture.

Musee Schoelcher

A small museum in an ornate colonial building on rue Peynier is dedicated to the Frenchman, Victor Schoelcher who was responsible for slavery being abolished in the French West Indies in 1848. It contains some of his persona! belongings and exhibits showing his life and work. Open weekdays 9.00am-5.00pm. Musee St-John-Perse

Opened in 1987 to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the birth of the poet Alexis Leger (better known

as St John Perse). This museum contains some of the poet’s personal possessions, photographs and a complete collection of his poetry. This beautiful building is well worth a visit as it is a rare example of 19th-century colonial architecture. The museum at 9 Rue de Nozieres, is open weekdays from 9.00am- 5.00pm and from 8.30am-12.30pm on Saturdays.

Cathedrale de St-Pierre et St-Paul

The cathedral in Place Gourbeyre (near the main shopping area) was built In 1807. It is often called the “Iron Cathedral” because it is reinforced with iron ribs to withstand hurricanes and earthquakes. Apart from the rather curious pink-coloured exterior, the beautifully-coloured stained glass windows are the main attraction.

Aquarium de la Guadeloupe

Located in Place Creole at Bas-du-Fort, this very highly-rated aquarium is the largest in the Caribbean. A symphony of over 700 tropica! parrot- fish, lion fish, chatrous and sharks live together in harmony in a silent, dream-like world. Some 3km (2 miles) from the town centre, it is open daily from 9.00am-6.30pm.

Fort Fleur d’Epee

Slightly further away from Pointe-a-Pitre, In the same direction, are the well-preserved ruins of a 19th century fort at Gosier. Perhaps the main attraction is the view across the bay and, if clear, of the islands of Marie-Galante and Les Saintes.

BEYOND POINTE-A-PITRE

Grande-Terre

This is an ideal place for cyclists and devotees of beaches and watersports. A complete tour involves driving about 130 km (80 miles) on very reasonable roads.

Gosier

The main resort centre of Guadeloupe - with hotels, restaurants and beaches - is only 8 km (5 miles) from Pointe-a-Pitre.

Ste-Anne and St Franqois

Continuing along the south coast and through the sugarcane fields, Ste-Anne is the next place of any real size. The main square, Place Schoelcher, has a statue of the man responsible for the ending of slavery in 1848. Further along the south coast, St- Franqois is another resort and also a fishing village. Lovely white sand beaches, (Raiisins Clairs and La Gourde), Creole and French restaurants, as well as a Hindu cemetery and an 18th century church are the main attractions.

Pointe-des-Chateaux

Mountainous waves often pound the jagged rocks at the eastern tip of the island where the Atlantic and Caribbean meet. Tarare Beach is for naturists, but this part of Grande-Terre is not safe for swimming.

Moule and the Extreme North

The former capital of Guadeloupe is still one of the island’s largest towns.

its 18th century neo-classical church is classified as an historical monument. Also worth seeing is a small fort on the harbour. In nearby La Rosette is an archaeological museum. The northern coastline consists of rocky headlands (Pointe de la Grand Vigie) with good views as far as Antigua and Montserrat, and beaches in the sheltered bays (Anse de Souffleur).

Les Grands-Fonds

The hills and valleys of the central region are the home of the Blancs Matignon - the white-skinned, fair-haired people - who are believed to be the descendants of not only those aristocrats who fled to the hills during the French Revolution, but also of a small minority of plantation owners who retreated to this area after the abolition of slavery. Basse-Terre

Basse-Terre is quite different - spectacular scenery, mountains, waterfalls, tropical rainforests and the place for hikers. Drivers will find the hilly and steep roads more demanding. A tour of the more interesting southern half involves a trip from Pointe- a-Pitre of about 145 km (90 miles).

Route de la Traversee

The cross-country road from east to west passes through the rainforest and the Parc Naturel - a lush, verdant wonderland covering around 74,000 acres. A hundred and ninety miles of marked paths lead through the natural flora and picturesque locations of this exotic sanctuary. Routes for hikers are displayed at the Maison de la Foret, where there is an information bureau and a slide show (Open from 10.00am-5.00pm). Tucked away in the park are picnic areas and small museums

covering information on the Park. You may even spot the racoon (the Park’s mascot). It is advisable to wear sturdy shoes and take a waterproof jacket if you decide to walk in the Park. The Cascade aux Ecrevisses is a natural waterfall, and there are panoramic views from the lookout on Les Deux Mamelles and from the top of Morne-a- Louis.

Also worth visiting is the Parc Zoologique (zoo and botanical gardens).

The Park is situated on the Route de la Traversee. Open from 9.00am-4.30pm daily.

Basse-Terre and the South Coast

Worth seeing in the capital city (population 12,000) are the cathedral, the Palais de Justice, the old colonial houses and Fort Sainte-Charles. At an Archaeological Park at Trois-Rivieres, are the Roches Gravees - strange petroglyphs carved on the rocks by the native Indians some 1,600 years ago.

East Coast

Near Capesterere-Belle-Eau is the impressive Allee Dumanoir, a road lined by century-old royal palm trees. To the north is an important Hindu temple and in the next village, Ste-Marie, a small bust of Columbus commemorates his landing here in 1493.

Also of interest, but involving detours from the coastal road, are Mount Soufriere (1,316 m 14,318 ft)a dormant, but not extinct, volcano and the Carbet Falls. The volcano, which threatened to erupt in 1975, cannot be climbed in the available time, but the three impressive cascades of the Carbet Falls are within walking distance. It takes about two hours to reach the 125 m (410 ft) high First Fall and only 30 minutes to reach the lower Second Fall.

GENERAL INFORMATION

Post Office

Boulevard Faidherbe, a few blocks inland from the Place de la Victoire and the Cathedral. Stamps and also available from souvenir shops and tabacs. Airmail letters take about a week to reach Europe.

Money Matters

Banks are open weekdays 8.00am-Noon and 2.00pm-4.00pm. (From June to September they are usually open from 7.30am-3.30pm).

The unit of currency is the euro (€).

Denominations

Notes: €5,10, 20,50,100,200 and 500 Coins: 1, 2, 5,10, 20 and 50 cents; €1 and 2

Hotels, larger restaurants and car-rental agencies will accept Visa, American Express and MasterCard.

Tourist Information

The main office is at 5 Square de la Banque. Tel. 82 09 30 English is spoken and useful leaflets include suggested tours of the island by car. In addition, maps, details of walks and hikes in the Parc Naturel, and “Boujour Guadeloupe” (tourist booklet) are all of interest.

ACTIVITIES

Beaches

The countless beaches which ring these islands are among the most beautiful in the Caribbean. Turquoise waters, honey coloured sand and coconut palms swaying gently in the breeze conjure up images of a tropical paradise.

Grand-Terre has a number of beautiful beaches of white sand, especially around Cosier, a short taxi ride from Pointe-a-Pitre. The Novotel Fleur d’Epee and La Creole Beach may be happy for non residents to use their changing facilities, beach chairs and towels for a small fee. Ilet du Cosier is a nudist beach.

Public beaches are free, but have limited facilities. There are several around Gosier and along the south coast of Grande-Terre from Ste-Anne to Pointe-des- Chateaux. One of the best is the reef-protected Caravelle Beach, some 14 km (9 miles) from Cosier, which is a popular place for snorkelling. Topless bathing is common on all beaches.

Watersports

Most beach-side hotels at Cosier rent equipment for windsurfing, body surfing and snorkeliing. Water skiing is available on the beaches of the Creole Beach and Meridien Hotels.

Scuba diving is a popular activity, especially at Pigeon Island (Ilet Pigeon) and Cousteau Reserve on the west coast of Basse-Terre, which Jacques Cousteau ranked as one of the world’s ten best diving spots.

Hiking

Marked trails lead through the tropical rainforest of the Parc Naturel and around Mount Soufriere, both of which are on Basse-Terre. Waterfalls, dense forests, steaming fumaroles and unusual birds can all be seen. There are hikes for all levels and tastes - some can be walked along, but a guide is strongly recommended if attempting anything ambitious - enquire at the Tourist Office or In the Park Bureaux.

Golf

St Francois International Coif Course, an 18-hole course designed by Robert Trent Jones.

Tel. 88 41 ST.

Windsurfing and waterskiing are possible on an adjacent lagoon.

EATING OUT

Guadeloupe, being French, has always been a noted centre of culinary expertise. Plenty of real Creole food, renowned for its spicy flavour, is on loca menus, including such island specialities as stuffed crab, stewed conch, roast wild goat, boudin creole (a pork sausage), jugged rabbit, fresh fish (for example red snapper in a passionfruit sauce) and seafood. While waiting for a substantial meal to arrive, try the appetisers known as accras, crispy fritters or crusty croquettes made of codfish or malanga roots. To complete the meal, the ice creams are truly mouthwatering and include an array of different tropical fruit flavours.

Rum punches are also extremely popular before, or after, a meal. The most popular is Ti Punch, a mixture of rum, sugarcane syrup and a dash of lime juice; Planteurs are rum with fruit juice and the everpopular Pina Colada consists of rum with cream of coconut, pineapple juice and crushed ice. Most restaurants carry a range of beers and French wines. Naturally, there are also plenty of fruit drinks, colas and minerals waters.

GETTING AROUND

Car Hire

It is advisable to go to a reputable company (as many of the smaller local agencies are perfectly illegal) and take out the CDW additional insurance.

Taxis

Fares, theoretically, are regulated by the Government, but agree on the price before starting the journey. The taxi stand is at the Place de la Victoire.

Buses

Buses run from Pointe-a-Pitre to almost anywhere in Guadeloupe; fares are inexpensive, but the bus system is infrequent and can be unreliable.

For Grande-Terre, buses leave from La Darse (by the Place de la Victoire): for Basse-Terre, a 15-minute walk will take you to the Care Routiere (bus station) de Bergevin.

Local buses run from 5.00am. There are no stops, you have to flag the bus down on the road.

Travelling by bus is a good way to meet the locals, but they don’t always provide service to the touristic sites.

Bicycle Hire

Bicycles can be rented at several places around the Place de la Victoire.

Ferries