Blog 206 Scotland: Mull, Orkney & Shetland, a travel blog
- Keef Hellinger
- Sep 14
- 24 min read
Updated: Oct 20
Created by KeefH Web Designs , September 14th, 2025, 8.12 PM
Motorhome trip No60: 13th August - 11th September 2025
Travel blog summary
NOTTS-> Mull, Orkney & Shetland -> NOTTS 1921 miles
It has been 3 years since we visited our dear pals in Mull (read blog 177), 40 years since we visited the Orkney islands when the boys were young (read blog 205) and 24 years since we last visited the Shetland islands (read blog 82).
Shetland TV Series
For those of you interested in the TV series, we have watched them all, love the scenery especially (no surprise there) here are some things you might remember. The show also mentions crimes on Bressay and Fetlar , both of which we have visited, indeed we revisited Bressay this time, just 7 minutes by ro-ro ferry from Lerwick (pronounced lerick!). We were surprised to find a Hollywood claim to fame plaque in the ground outside the procurator fiscal's office, used in the show as the police station #hintsandtips
Anne Cleve's next book is the Killing Stones, which has Jimmy Perez return but to the Orkney Islands , do hope they create a TV show called Orkneys #wishlist
This is the most northerly house in the UK, at the top of the island of Unst in the Shetlands. It surprisingly isn't the same house as we visited back in 2001 but therefore must have been built since then, it has a bit of a feel of having once been a lighthouse but who knows. It is just before you get to the Hermaness RSPB national park and is called Skaw in the wick of Skaw.
Viking
I am 5% Viking (certified) and visiting the Orkney brewery visitors centre in Quoyloo
has really helped me feel like one, I even got a chat with the head brewer about a joint ale called North & South they jointly brew with the Oakham brewery near us in Rutland.
The other Viking memorabilia is from the Hoswick visitors centre and was used in a past Up Helly Aa celebration.
MENU
INTRODUCTION
Blog 206 will take you on our journey returning to Mull, Orkney and Shetland with us. A lot has changed in the intervening years, mostly brought about by the arrival of cruise ships with mixed blessings. Have a read, take a look at the image galleries and some if not all of the slideshows, they all have great music accompanying them. If of course you would prefer the audiobook version, there are 3 of them then click here, enjoy and thanks for taking the time, love K& A xxx
DIARY / SCHEDULE
This is the diary from my early planning days, the only changes in reality were we only did 1 night on the island of Yell at Burravoe and since the Unst site never answered me after 5 attempts plus a message to the Shetland tourist board to ask if it still existed all to no avail, so we decided to return to the lovely Janet & Alans site at Scalloway / Tingwall (meaning parliament in Norse) on the 4th & 5th September for an extra 2 nights. Janet was born in the house attached to the community site that she runs, we built up quite a relationship with her after a bunch of stag doers on the golf course opposite, beers in hand and NO skill, managed to hit our motorhome with a golf ball. Since her 7 brothers and sisters also live in the valley along Tingwall loch and her niece who runs the golf course, she was contacted by aunt in strong terms. It was her dad who loved golf who built the mini golf course, only 9 holes. I personally am still of the skool that golf is "a good walk ruined" #smile Janet whom we chatted with a lot said her youngest brother who had married a Canadian lass live on one of the remote islands next to Vancouver Island, she asked if we knew it, Denman Island?, no but our ferry to Vancouver island must have gone past it. We concluded Island life was in her families DNA.
TRAVEL ROUTE
Here is a video of the route we took, so love the Lady Gaga soundtrack that goes with it
PANORAMAS
This slideshow shows all the panoramas I shot arranged in a you tube slideshow featuring on my YT Channel , such great memories of a fab holiday with less than 1 day's rain in 29 and scenery to die for, so glad we return after many intervening years. The big difference especially with respect to the Orkney and Shetland islands is the introduction of cruise ships c. 200 per year. Mixed blessings from the islanders and us travellers, we used to be able to park outside Skara Brae (5000bc neolithic site) and stroll around on our own unaccompanied, this time , guess what? Still the plus side is the benefits to remote island economics. Apparently, it's called "progress" I am happy to be both a luddite and a woke in today's world #smile
FULL VIDEOS "THE TALKIES"
This video includes all the "talking pictures" we captured on our 3 islands tour, the reality is it was way more than 3 islands if you include Mull, Mainland Orkney, Lamb holm, Burray, South Ronaldsay (the last 3 Orkney islands joined by causeways built by Italian POW's , see the image of the chapel they built on Lamb holm its wonderful),Shetland mainland, Bressay, Yell and Unst (including the very northern most house in the UK) so I guess that makes it 9 islands we visited, we are all ferried out! #smile It we include close up views of islands we can add Iona, Noss, Foula and Mousa to that list making it 13 islands.
Maps
These will hopefully help you in finding any place mentioned, its good positioning
One interesting set of talkies are those taken at Kirkwall airport where a helicopter left Aberdeen carrying oil rig workers, couldn't land on the offshore platform beyond the Shetlands, too much fog, returned but was worried about not having enough fuel so pit stopped in the Orkneys to refuel before making the onward journey back to Aberdeen. This is where I learnt about the 165mph winds that happen here. #help
DAY BY DAY, writeups and slideshows
To read the individual writeups on what when on where and on which days use the menu to go directly to that section of the holiday, but I also show here the campsites we stayed at and on which days. Lovely Planxty music accompanies that, so evocative of Celtic travel, and takes me back to my yoof hitching around Scotland when one guy was playing Planxty LOUDS!!!
Campsites
You can also use the Diary as an aide-memoire.
TRAVELLING TO OBAN VIA TROUTBECK Wednesday to Thursday 13th-14th August 2025
Let the adventure start. We had been packing for the previous 2 weeks around other commitments. So, on the Wednesday we travelled up to the campsite at Troutbeck head, a lovely route along the A66, passed Tarzan's Greystoke. Lovely weather all the way meant we got the table and chairs out right away and opened the very cold Henry Weston's vintage cider. Had a good chat with Aussie guy in the next pitch who had just climbed Blencathra. Bittersweet views really as Sharp Edge on Blencathra was in plain side and this is where my dear pal Pete perished whilst climbing at the start of the year. Anyhow lets not dwell there, the site and views are lovely.
Next morning up early as a huge distance to cover from Troutbeck to Oban. 374 miles, all through lovely Scottish scenery on the west coast. The route around Lock Lomond is both lovely and tricky to drive in a motorhome with so much traffic and narrow winding roads, it certainly slows you down. So we stopped at the Tarbet Hotel at the start really for a lovely lunch. Haggis pakora's I can thoroughly recommend, never had them before, great idea Mr. Chef. We popped over to the loch to see the views and pleasure boats leaving or was it heaving with tourists. Then on to our campsite for the night just outside Oban at Kiel Crofts, both tired from the travel it was a light tea and to bed. This site is way better than the one we normally stay at when visiting Mull, and we only swapped because the other was greedy with a minimum 2 nights stay required now-a-days, not good. It is known as Highfields Holidays , Tralee Bay (sounds Irish but honest it's Scottish!)
THE WONDERFUL ISLE OF MULL, Visiting Friends at Ardtun, plus Uisken & Lochbuie Friday to Monday15th-18th August 2025
Left the Oban campsite, which was actually in Kiel Crofts Benderloch earlyish, had a bit of a panic when the roadworks for fallen rocks on the road to the ferry meant a 10-minute delay whilst they repositioned a piece of heavy machinery. Still, we got there in time and joined the queue although the reality was, they were letting people on even up to 5 minutes before the ferry left. The Isle of Mull ferry takes between 45 & 60 minutes depending on ferry used and weather.
We then drove down to Ardtun near Bunessan , Fionnphort and Iona and our pals Chris & Allyson's house. Initially we missed it, their trees have definitely grown up, although we have been a few times before, how embarrassing. Anyhow lovely to meet up in person again.
We had a good show around the garden, polytunnel (great crops and fruit Allyson!) plus the new pond or loch Langthorne as I named it, its huge.
Saturday, we went to the lovely Uisken beach for a walk and the ladies chatted to the knitting craft lady. The weather was lovely. We called in at their local pub (which they have a hand in, sometimes too much of a hand I understood #smile ) and sat outside in the sunshine overlooking Iona, fab times. We were introduced to the band Tide Lines during our stay, great sounds.
Sunday was a somewhat longer drive for Chris almost back to Craignure to take us to the lovely Lochbuie. We had a walk to the castle, then back to the cafe (old post office) for sausage rolls, cakes , coffee and views to die for.
Monday was a day of relaxion, well for us at least , we watched Chris tidying the front lawn and Allyson tending her garden and crops.
Tuesday up early, goodbyes and off to catch our ferry back to Oban. What a lovely time we had catching up, laughing, drinking, eating and generally enjoying each other's company. Thanks so much pals, until the next time. The weather was amazing all 4 days and as Allyson posted me later, "you have taken the sun with you, give it back" #haha As I think I said somewhere else we were amazingly lucky with the weather, wind aside, with less than 1 days rain in 29 #result
LEAVING MULL HEADING FOR THE ORKNEYS Tues-Wed 19-20 August 2025
Left Chris & Allyson's with 90 minutes to spare to get the ferry, got there with 5 minutes to spare, not easy on Mull's busy single-track roads in a motorhome. Sad to say farewell, we had a lovely time with our pals, and the weather had been particularly kind. A lovely, cooked breakfast on the Isle of Mull ferry, full Scottish. The ferry trip is Craignure on Mull to Oban in Argyll. Once back in Oban we shopped and refueled ready for the onward journey. Then a great trip across to Inverness-shire via the Argyll coastal route, and our CAMC site at Culloden Moor, been there before back in 2013, but neither of us really remembered it and we stayed 2 nights last time. Avoiding the usual loch Ness road which is busy we climbed the great Glen along Admiral Wades Military Road #recommeded stopping at the top for some fab views back down onto loch Ness amongst other sights. We then stopped in the lovely town of Helmsdale for lunch. It is set on the river Helmsdale and was centre of the goldrush back in the 19th century, who knew there was Klondike's in Scotland? After that and a look around we went onto our CAMC campsite at Dunnet Bay, plus our usual walk on its lovely sandy beach if a little blowy this time. Next morning it was off to catch the ferry at Scrabster to Stromness in the Orkneys. (North Link ferry Hamnavoe)
ARRIVING IN THE ORKNEYS, STROMNESS, NEOLITHIC SITES Thurs-Fri 21-22 August 2025
Drove from Dunnet Bay C&MC site to Scrabster, visited the Lidl , got petrol and waited in line for our North Link ferry Hamnavoe to the Orkneys arriving at Stromness. This was by far the shortest of our ferry crossings and the only one that goes close past the Old Man of Hoy, which we did visit by car back in 1985, it's close to Rackwick bay on Hoy. An amazing natural beauty. We had a lovely 2 course meal on the boat. On arrival we made our way right around the town of Stromness to the campsite on the Point of Ness, a lovely site with amazing views. It is key to take this route, you are warned, as Stromness streets are incredibly narrow as you will see from the slideshow.
Having pitched up at the site we asked the warden how far to the bus stop to get into town. This was sadly lost in translation in local Orkney dialect because whilst we meant Stromness he took that to mean Kirkwall and the bus stop was at the ferry terminal in Stromness. Anyhow we started walking, a very kind couple who were on holiday as well took pity on two crumblies with walking sticks and gave us a lift thru the narrow street of Stromness, which was super kind of them , because it enabled us to walk back to the site a distance of roughly 1.2 miles, rather than 2.5, and it was a most interesting walk with lots of stuff to look at through the narrow cobbled street. We even got a glimpse of our North Link ferry returning to Scrabster. Fascinating to find an oil drum dragon boat near the Point of Ness. Also, the famous well where Cook, Sir John Franklin and Hudson bay crews drank.
The next day we visited the fabulous Skara Brae (brae being Norse for community), the Ring of Brodgar and the standing stones of Stenness. These neolithic sites are what gives Orkney its UNESCO world heritage status. The huge difference we note since visiting all 3 40 years ago is that we were alone when we visited them, nowadays most are fenced off (rightly) and you are most definitely not alone, the 2 cruise ships on the day made sure of that!
We then went to our central campsite along the Ness of Kirkwall from where our travels were based for the rest of our time on Orkney. Whilst at Skara Brae we also visited the house of the discover, which clearly wasn't open to the public 40 years ago as the lady was still alive and living there, quite a grand mansion, called Skaill House.
ORKNEY SOUTH ISLANDS, MULL HEAD & KIRKWALL AIRPORT Sat-Mon 23-35 August 2025
Started the day leaving for our lovely campsite on Kirkwall Ness where we spent all our nights whilst in the Orkneys, except for the first night which was in Stromness. Visited the Highland Park distillery to get Doug a bottle for his collection. Highland park I partook 40 years ago. From here on the outskirts of Kirkwall we headed south, passed St Mary's onto Lamb holm and visited the Italian chapel built by Italian Prisoners of War. Then onto Burray where there was a fete and finally onto the island of South Ronaldsay, heading west initially to the lovely St Margaret's hope. You can get a ferry from here to Gill's Bay at the top of the Scottish mainland. Pentland Firth ferries run this. We have visited Gill's bay before, but I never realised it was a car ferry, always assumed it was passenger only. Had a lovely coffee and cake (K&A's cake tours again) #haha
We then drove right down to the tip of South Ronaldsay, some lovely views, especially from the especially laid out viewing points. At Burwick you can get the quickest passenger ferry back to John O'Groats but judging by the port it isn't very frequent. We also visited the fabulous Mull Head and walked along to the grotto, just fab views out here and a gentle walk for us crinklies. Annie's knee is well and truly recovered now and we did 21 miles walking during the holiday. Slowly admittedly but I now am the slow coach in pain. We visited the wonderful Woolshed and chatted with the lovely lady there. We saw cruise ships on our travels and especially from our Pitch 16 at the Kirkwall Ness campsite.
VISITING THE EAST & LEAVING ORKNEY 26th - 28th August 2025
We visited Birsay, the Broch of Gurness, Orkney Brewery at Quoyloo, Kirkwall, Tingwall to see the ferry to Rousay, and Finstown to try and find the Redlands cottage we stayed in with the boys 40 years ago. Although we found Redlands in Finstown the cottage has obviously gone after the intervening years.
We also visited the Broch of Gurness, somewhere we had been in 2001, and to our great pleasure we watched a pair of seals basking in the ripples. I loved the appropriate sign there that said "heavily built" #haha All very Viking I felt at home. We visited awful Earl Patrick's palace at Birsay, had a lovely Orkney ice-cream there and marvelled at the sea views and a couple of ladies who had hired a motorhome on the island, we came across them a bit and gave them a wide berth.
In Kirkwall we visited a craft fayre, met the lovely lady at the tourist centre who doubled as the North Link ferries check in lady who advised us which ferry terminal to go to (there are 3) Hatson Quay, built for cruise ships. We visited St Magnus Cathedral, the museum and gardens, community centre where we watched a video about the history of the Cathedral. Walked along the cobbled streets, found the tweed shop, way too expensive and then out to Orphir, the round castle and Orkney saga museum and video. Then waited at Finstown after leaving the campsite in Kirkwall until late for our ferry onwards.
ARRIVAL IN SHETLAND FROM ORKNEY PLUS TRIP OUT WEST 29th August - 31st August 2025
It was a short night sleep wise after finally getting on the North Link ferry Hjaltland at almost midnight and having to reverse back in between a lorry and a brick wall (Hmm not ideal when you are tired!) Got to bed and arrived after a nice 6am brekkie in Lerwick at 7am. The first thing we noticed is arriving in a brand-new commercial harbour unlike the old original in 2001 on the SS Claire, progress obviously! or was it just to cater for cruise ships?
Anyhow drove south to Sumburgh, so love Sumburgh head and it was deserted. Great views, waves, birds etc. etc. Then down to the Sumburgh Hotel / Jarlshof car park to crash for an hour. Went into hotel for overpriced coffee , would have visited Jarlshof but it started raining so thought we would do later in the week. We then (as it was site check in time) went to the Scalloway campsite and set up on pitch 2, lovely setting opposite loch Tingwall in the Tingwall valley. Tingwall was the old capital (means parliament in Norse) ...remember the Isle of Man? Orkney has a Tingwall as well, the ferry goes from there to Rousay island.
It was originally an island in the loch that they had to row out to, but a causeway was built across that has now blended in, all very interesting, you learn something new every day!
After a good night's sleep, we headed out west, initially to the hugely unusual yet impressive Original Cake Fridge, based in Bixter, where trust is the name of the game and quality cakes. Indeed, many folks on the islands leave their homes unlocked, keys in the car and more, try that in a UK city! We then visited Sandness about as far west as you can go on Mainland Shetland and then the fabulous Walls where a group of kid entrepreneurs managed to sell us a single biscuit (shop bought hob nobs) for 50p under the pretext of charity, good for them #smile the roads out west were single track and mostly deserted apart from one solitary sheep who would not divert from the direct road in front even tried hooting #haha Walls harbour is the place to catch a ferry to Foula, but they don't run very often. We called in on the way back to Scalloway at the Stanydale neolithic site.
SOUTHERN MAINLAND SHETLAND & BRESSAY ISLAND Monday 1st - Tuesday 2nd September 2025
Having left Scalloway campsite we first went to Gulberswick Bay, where we stayed back in 2001, didn't recognise any of it, so built up now then went into Lerwick and caught the 7-minute ferry across to Bressay. We drove all over Bressay , it is only 3 by 1.5 miles , the same size as Iona. Views back over to Lerwick were wonderful, the Laird's old building interesting, the shop / post office has its own Geo address as "the Mail shop", the final road to the eastern side lighthouse was sadly closed but we saw it back in 2001, but the very best bit was the view over to the island of Noss. Take a look at the pictures. After returning by ferry to Lerwick (just caught it at 3.30 pm) we headed onto our campsite in Levenwick. A community site with no one else on it apart from one tent guy whom we saw quite often on our travels. The next day we visited Levenwick beach, Sandwick , Hoswick (equivalents to our fave Sandvik & Hosvik on the Faroes, wick and vik in Norse both meaning "place of"). The Orkney islands in our humble opinion is very much like Caithness at the top of Scotland whereas Shetland is far more akin to Faroes, much more dramatic scenery. Very blowy in both "wick" places then onto the harbour over to Mousa, where we did go by fishing boat style ferry in 2001. The ferry wasn't running today but we visited the history centre, had lunch in the van, and saw a seal. Afterwards we went to the neolithic site at Jarlshof by Sumburgh head, hugely interesting, before returning to pitch 4 at Levenwick.
Betty Mouat
Whilst on the Mousa pier at Sandsayre we learnt all about a fascinating woman Betty Mouat, what an experience, her bod (Norse for house) still exists , what a survival, no wonder she became the stuff of legend. Want to know more?
NORTHERN ISLES, Yell & Unst Wednesday 3rd - Thursday 4th September
Left our Levenwick campsite, then after a bit of a wooly start at the Bod of Gremista in Lerwick and a good walk around Lerwick i.e. the cobbled Commercial road, a coffee top up in the Peerie cafe (Peerie means small or little in Norse) and hot chips from the chippie. We parked again up by "police station" and tried to gain access to Fort Charlotte but it was closed due to building restoration on some very old buildings up in the main legislative area, then we headed north.
The Yell ferry leaves Toft and arrives in Ulsta on Yell. £19.30 for motorhome and us two. The merry ferryman said it was an open-ended return as you have to come back sometime, even if it's in a box. Much to our surprise it also included the ferry to and from Unst as well, great value for over 1hour ferry rides when compared to the same £19.30 for the 7-minute crossing return from Lerwick to Bressay island. Interestingly the ferry also leaves for Fetlar from Toft, we didn't go there this time but back in 2001 we went to Fetlar from Lerwick not Toft, ferry routes have obviously changed in the intervening years.
Once on Yell we used the fab single track road on the east coast of Yell to get to Burravoe Pier where the wonderful community run campsite is #recommendation Great views , reminded us of our campsite in Mommark in Denmark. From Burravoe we took the ever winding and climbing east coast single-track road followed by a tractor most of the way, i did try and let him past but he declined, rejoining the main road at Mid Yell, then onto Gutcher to get the ferry to the island of Unst arriving at Belmont. We drove towards Haroldswick hoping for what was recommended as the best High Tea in Scotland but sadly Victoria's cafe was closed, we did see the Viking reenactment site (longship and longhouse), and next to the cafe was a harp community workshop, sadly no one playing that day. We then returned thru both islands to the Shetland mainland, great fish and chips in Brae, onto Hillswick, via Burrafirth with views of Papa little then back to Scalloway and Janet's fab campsite. A lot of driving but what views and experiences.
CHILLIN' in SCALLOWAY Friday 5th - Sunday 7th September
Before embarking our overnight ferry journey on the high seas from Lerwick to Aberdeen we had a few days chilling back at Janet's lovely campsite on the edge of Loch Tingwall. The wind levels were extreme on the Sunday between 40-60 mph , the van rocked, but as the campsite was high up by the time we got down ferry side in Lerwick the winds had partially calmed. The Friday and Saturday were lovely weather, we even sat out, as Janet said this is a first for Shetland in September. We also managed a trip into Scalloway to visit in this order, the museum and learnt all about the Shetland bus (who knew?) plus petted their lovely Shetland ponies, then Earl Patrick's Scalloway castle, more about the most hated man in the Shetland and Orkneys in a bit, he popped up often in our travels. Then a look around Scalloway town, the original capital of the Shetlands. Try the slideshow why don't you?
The tyrannical and hated Earl Patrick, the stories of him are grim!
Indeed, all historical sites we visited had not one good word to say about him.
On the remote islands of Orkney and Shetland, Earl Patrick Stewart’s ruined mansions bear witness to his wealth and power. But nothing could save Patrick when his rapacity brought him into conflict with church and king.
Royal blood ran in Patrick’s veins. He was the son of Robert Stewart (1533–1593), an illegitimate son of James V and Euphemia Elphinstone. When Robert died in 1593 his son Patrick (1566–1615) took over the earldom. This haughty tyrant ruled the isles with great cruelty. The earl used the people of Orkney and Shetland as slave labour ‘without meat, or drink, or hire’ (pay). They were forced to man Patrick’s boats and ships and were treated like galley slaves.
Patrick’s splendid castle at Scalloway (1599) was funded by a tax on every ox and sheep in Shetland. The islanders worked stone in his quarries, carried stone and lime to construct his castles, palaces and park walls, and undertook whatever other jobs he wanted doing.
Local tradition says that the mortar for the walls of Scalloway castle was mixed using human hair, blood and eggs.
TRAVELLING HOME Monday 8th - Thursday 11th September
We left a very windy Lerwick on the North Link ferry Hrossey and had what we can only describe as a truly scary crossing to Aberdeen with 4-meter-high waves. We not surprisingly didn't sleep that well, initially Annie felt fairly seasick but as the night wore on that passed. We helped each other around the cabin, evening meal (maybe we shouldn't have) and breakfast were good.
After landing in Aberdeen not too later than schedule , the captain had made up time as it calmed nearer the mainland of Scotland. We then went to Stonehaven, a lovely town, with an art deco hot water outdoor pool, which we have seen before plus super coffee and puds in the Waterfront cafe. The lady there showed us the floods from 2023, sea spray submerging the outside of their cafe. We visited Dunnottar castle, bit too steep for us crinklies after we started down the stairs.
From there onto Forfar, not as interesting a town as we had hoped and especially unwelcoming because of the stench of muck spreading that Keef unfortunately misinterpreted as a bin strike #smile but it's redeeming feature was the quality of the CAMC campsite and Forfar loch plus the Costa coffee in the high road. Who knew 51 witches were burnt there in one year and a few were men.
It was then across the border into Northumberland, Warkworth for lunch in the Mason's arms, the castle, which is English Heritage we walked up the steep hill to, very interesting place but had we known I would have driven up to it.
Then it was onto River Beamish, all the way thru the Northumbrian national park hunting for the campsite, note the postcode doesn't work but we found the CL, after bad advice then back to the main CAMC site. Naughty people told it was "over the bridge" 10 miles later through the national park, more pheasants than I had ever seen, partridges, grouse, rabbit and an amazingly remote terrain, well worth a visit.
From there it was home with a stop for lunch and provisions in Doncaster. All in all a great trip, scenery, history, food, fun and ferries!
AUDIOBOOK
And now the AI version text via Audiobook, see what you think?
And now with a more gentle female voice
AI SUMMARY
Here are 750 words created by AI to summarise this whole blog, see what you think. AI is getting better over time as I assumed it would.
🚐 Blog 206: Mull, Orkney & Shetland – A Motorhome Meander Through Memory Lane
Three islands. Forty years. One motorhome. And a whole lot of ferry tickets. In this nostalgic yet freshly windswept travel blog, Keef and Annie embark on their 60th motorhome adventure, retracing steps from decades past across Mull, Orkney, and Shetland. The journey spans 1980 miles, a few minor misadventures, and enough panoramic photos to make your screen sigh with envy.
🏝️ Mull: Reunions and Rain-Free Miracles
First stop: Mull, where old friends and older memories await. It’s been three years since the last visit (see Blog 177), and the island greets the duo with its signature charm—and, miraculously, less than a day of rain in 29. That’s practically tropical by Scottish standards.
The panoramas are lovingly stitched into a YouTube slideshow, capturing Mull’s rugged beauty and the kind of scenery that makes you want to quit your job and become a sheep. Or at least a sheep photographer.
🏰 Orkney: Cruise Ships and Neolithic Nostalgia
Next up, Orkney—land of ancient stones, Italian POW-built chapels, and a new breed of invaders: cruise ships. With around 200 docking annually, the once-solitary strolls around Skara Brae (circa 5000 BC) now come with a side of selfie sticks and queue etiquette. Progress, they say. Mixed blessings, mutter the locals. Keef, ever the diplomatic luddite-woke hybrid, takes it all in stride.
The Italian Chapel on Lamb Holm, built by WWII prisoners, is a highlight—an ornate testament to resilience and artistry. Causeways connect Lamb Holm, Burray, and South Ronaldsay, making island-hopping feel like a scenic game of hopscotch.
🕵️ Shetland: TV Fame and Foggy Flights
Shetland, the final leg, brings drama worthy of its namesake TV series. Fans of the show will recognize Bressay and Fetlar, both visited by our intrepid travellers. Bressay, just a 7-minute ferry hop from Lerwick (pronounced “Lerick,” if you’re in the know), even boasts a plaque outside the procurator fiscal’s office—used as the police station in the show. Hollywood, eat your heart out.
A helicopter tale from Kirkwall airport adds airborne suspense: fog foils a landing on an offshore oil rig, forcing a refuel stop in Orkney. Cue 165mph winds and a collective “nope” from the cabin crew. Keef’s commentary? #help.
🎥 The Talkies: Nine Islands, One Epic Playlist
Though billed as a three-island tour, the final tally hits nine: Mull, Mainland Orkney, Lamb Holm, Burray, South Ronaldsay, Shetland Mainland, Bressay, Yell, and Unst. That’s enough ferry rides to make Poseidon dizzy. Unst even features the northernmost house in the UK—a perfect spot for bragging rights and windburn.
The “talkies” (video diaries) capture byte-sized banter, sweeping landscapes, and the occasional startled sheep. Celtic tunes from Planxty accompany the visuals, evoking Keef’s hitchhiking youth and the kind of nostalgia that smells faintly of damp wool and adventure.
🛏️ Campsites, Castles & Crinkly Knees
Campsites are chronicled with precision, from scenic lochs to the occasional whiff of muck spreading (mistaken for a bin strike—classic Keef). Forfar earns a mixed review: lovely loch, great coffee, but also the site of 51 witch burnings in one year. Yikes. Even the witches were like, “Can we get a transfer?”
Dunnottar Castle proves a bit too steep for the “crinklies,” but the view is worth the wheeze. Warkworth Castle in Northumberland gets a thumbs-up, though next time, Keef vows to drive up the hill instead of impersonating a mountain goat.
River Beamish National Park offers remote beauty and a wildlife parade: pheasants, partridges, grouse, rabbits—basically a feathered flash mob. The hunt for the elusive campsite involves a postcode misfire and some dodgy directions (“over the bridge” = 10 miles of scenic confusion). Still, the terrain is stunning, and the detour becomes part of the charm.
🌊 The Return: Waves, Witches & Waterfront Cafés
The journey home begins with a dramatic ferry ride from Lerwick to Aberdeen aboard the Hrossey. Four-meter waves and a touch of seasickness make for a sleepless night, but Annie rallies, and breakfast is surprisingly decent. Stonehaven offers art deco pool nostalgia and a café with flood stories from 2023—sea spray submerging the exterior like Poseidon’s espresso bar.
Doncaster provides the final pit stop for lunch and provisions before the motorhome rolls back into Nottingham, tired but triumphant.
🎉 Final Thoughts: A Wendy House of Wonders
Blog 206 is a love letter to Scotland’s islands, penned with wit, warmth, and a dash of weather-related peril. It’s a celebration of revisiting old haunts, embracing new quirks, and ferrying through the fog with a smile. Whether it’s the Italian Chapel’s quiet grace or the chaos of cruise ship crowds, Keef and Annie capture it all with humor and heart.
And yes, they’re all ferried out. But not out of stories.
HIGHLIGHTS / LOWLIGHTS
Highs: Janet and her campsite at Scalloway, Haggis Pakoras at the Tarbet hotel on Loch Lomond, Seeing Chris & Allyson again, Stromness, Hoswick, Mousa pier exhibition, Fish & Chips in Brae, Viking stuff on Unst, Reaching the last house in the UK, Neolithic sites, Learning about some of the history of the island, the Woolshed and the lovely lady there, fab scenery everywhere, the Wendy house's performance, endless sunshine
Lows: 4m high waves on our ferry journey, cruise ship tourists, traffic on single track roads on Mull
DOCUMENTS & INFORMATION
Collected en route.
Campsite Stuff
Other Stuff
Beers & Whisky
You will see lots of images of beer places we visited, namely Orkney Brewery and Swannay, plus the Highland Park (my fave single malt of all time) distillery, there are so many new distilleries on the islands, plus gin production all trying to make a mark, plus bottles I drank and Tee shirts I bought (no surprise there!) but here's a few memories.
now complete 20/9/25 enjoy
14/9/25 under construction, this may take a while, BUT what a fab trip, no 60 in the van and so useful to have my new phone for quality images, best enjoy KHWD ;)