Blog 82 Shetlands, Scotland, July 2001 (Retrospective)

Keef Hellinger
Nov 13, 2021
4 min read

Updated: Oct 11

By keef and annie hellinger, Mar 8 2015 05:06PM

Not the motorhome trip no.15 ( a retrospective, hence out of order)

This is a retrospective of a holiday Annie & I took to the wonderful Shetland Isles in July 2001.

Back in July 2001, we ventured to the far-flung Shetland Islands—where Scotland stretches into the North Sea and time seems to slow with the rhythm of the tides. This retrospective captures a journey shaped by dramatic coastlines, Viking echoes, and the quiet charm of island life. From Lerwick’s bustling harbour to the windswept cliffs of Sumburgh Head, we traced ancient paths and soaked in the long northern light. It was a motorhome adventure unlike any other—remote, rugged, and utterly unforgettable. Join us as we revisit those misty mornings, ferry crossings, and the simple joy of discovering a world apart.

The islands we visited on this trip were Mainland, Bressay, Yell, Unst, Fetlar and Mousa.

Travelled up from Nottingham in our then red ford escort estate, stayed overnight in Aberdeen , picnicked in the grounds of an open prison (unbeknown to us until we were evicted) Overnight ferry to Lerwick. Stayed in a cottage not far outside Lerwick at Gulberswick Bay. Travelled thru all the islands and even a boat to Fetlar taking the car across. We visited the island of Mousa by tourist ferry and spent the day walking around and seeing the seal sanctuary. Cold and misty mostly but very interesting islands. Met a couple on Unst who had pigs etc. were very interesting. He did IT from home and she ran a craft shop, idyllic lifestyle, used to live in London Travelled on the SS Claire Aberdeen to Lerwick. Note we went back past this on the ferry to the Faroes & Iceland in 2019 Blog 135 after leaving Denmark straight past Sumner Head where we had sat on the beach in the sun all those years ago, next to the Viking settlement and the airport.

The Shetlands are a lovely set of islands, much history, green, lush and rocky. Read a wiki overview here

If you want to hear the blog as an audiobook?

sumburgh head views,waves and cliffs, shetlands, scotland, just so wonderful, it has a lighthouse

They are made up of Fair Isle, Mousa, Nista, Bressay, Unst, Mainland Shetland i.e. the one with Lerwick (pronounced Lerick!) , Whalsay, St Ninian's Isle, Foula, Yell, Papa Stour and the outer Skerries. What a wonderful memory we have of these lovely Islands, and the wonderful festival of Up Helly Aa. Read all about it HERE.

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VIKING SHIP

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BROCHs

Here are some images of the Broch's we visited

🏰 Clickimin Broch – Lerwick’s Ancient Sentinel

Located just outside Lerwick on the shore of Clickimin Loch, Clickimin Broch is one of the most accessible and visually striking brochs in Shetland. Its layered history spans over a thousand years, making it a fascinating site for both archaeologists and storytellers.

🕰️ Historical Timeline

c. 1000 BC: Began as a Bronze Age farmstead with evidence of barley cultivation and livestock enclosures.
c. 200–100 BC: Defensive walls and a blockhouse were added, likely to protect against raids.
c. 1st century AD: The broch itself was constructed—originally towering up to 12–15 meters.
c. 2nd–3rd century AD: Converted into a wheelhouse with cattle stalls and storage pits.
Post-500 AD: Gradual decline and eventual abandonment before Norse arrival.

🧱 Architectural Features

Broch Tower: Roughly 20m in diameter, with thick drystone walls enclosing two ground-level cells.
Blockhouse: A unique freestanding gateway structure—rare among brochs.
Causeway & Footprint Stone: A carved stone with two footprints, possibly linked to kingship rituals.
Ringwork & Fortifications: Multiple layers of defensive architecture, including a ditch and stout outer wall.

🔍 Archaeological Finds

Stone lamps, whetstones, bone tools, Roman glass fragments, and a die—suggesting trade and cultural exchange.

🏯 Mousa Broch – The Tallest and Most Intact

Perched on the uninhabited island of Mousa, this broch is the crown jewel of Iron Age architecture in Scotland. It’s not just the best-preserved broch—it’s the tallest still standing, and steeped in saga-worthy drama.

🕰️ Historical Timeline

c. 300–100 BC: Constructed during the Iron Age, possibly as a high-status dwelling or defensive stronghold.
Norse Era: Featured in Egil’s Saga and Orkneyinga Saga—used as a refuge and siege site.
18th–19th Century: Visited by antiquarians including Sir Walter Scott, who called it “the most entire Pictish fortress in the world”.

🧱 Architectural Features

Height: Stands at 13.3 meters (44 ft)—the tallest broch in existence.
Structure: Built with two concentric drystone walls, forming six galleries and an internal staircase.
Interior: Includes three wall chambers, a hearth, stone bench, and a floor tank.
Entrance Passage: 5 meters long, with a bar-hole and upper cell above the lintel.

🐦 Wildlife & Legacy

Mousa Broch is now home to thousands of storm petrels, nesting in its crevices—adding a living layer to its ancient stones

Both brochs offer a vivid portal into Shetland’s layered past—Clickimin with its evolving settlement and ceremonial mystery, Mousa with its towering presence and saga-born legend. If you're weaving them into your blog or visual storytelling, they’re ripe with symbolic and temporal themes: endurance, transformation, and the rhythm of island life.

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